Antique & Vintage Engagement Rings: The Complete Buying Guide

Antique & Vintage Engagement Rings: The Complete Buying Guide

So, you're proposing? Congratulations!

But where to start? With so many rings to browse online, it's easy to feel overwhelmed by the volume of options on offer. Combined with the pressure to get it right and a choir of opinions we know it can be a battle to navigate the pressure and to hold onto the joy and excitement of buying an engagement ring.

If you've made it here, you're probably considering buying an antique or vintage engagement ring. Whether you're drawn to the romance and striking styles of vintage jewellery, or the history that comes with an antique ring, this guide hopes to offer some insight and give you the confidence to find something your soon-to-be fiancé(e) will treasure.

So here's everything you need to know.

Antique vs Vintage: What's the Difference?

Antique engagement rings are defined as rings that are over 100 years old. These pieces often originate from iconic historical periods such as the Victorian era (1837–1901), the Edwardian era (1901–1915), or the Art Deco period (1920s–1930s). Each era brings its own distinctive style, from the romantic, intricate designs of the Victorian period to the bold, geometric lines of Art Deco jewellery.

Vintage engagement rings are slightly harder to define, but at Wave we class a ring as vintage if it's more than 30 years old. That includes the bright, bold style of the 1960s and the sleek designs of the 1990s.

How to Choose a Stone for Your Engagement Ring?

Any gemstone you love can become an engagement ring, but some stones are more popular than others. That may be because of tradition or because they sit at the higher end of the Mohs hardness scale (that classifies minerals according to their hardness). The higher the stone, the more hardwearing they are, which means they can be worn every day without much adaptation to your lifestyle.

Diamonds

The classic stone, and for good reason. "A girl's best friend," diamonds are eye-catching for their unmatched brilliance and have a long history of being used in engagement rings dating back to Ancient Rome. This tradition means diamonds have come to symbolise eternal love and commitment, exactly what you want from your engagement ring. Practically, natural diamonds also retain their value, are extremely hardwearing, and are versatile, so look fantastic alongside other jewels. 

Diamond rings span every era of vintage and antique jewellery, so you're sure to find the ring of your dreams, whatever your style.

Coloured Diamonds

While the white diamond has traditionally been the beauty standard, coloured diamonds are becoming an ever more sought-after choice. Buttery yellow diamonds specifically are having a real moment in the sun. Perfect for those after a twist on a classic, or who look particularly good in gold, yellow diamonds feel more modern and fresh while still retaining the charm and history that make diamonds so beloved.

Sapphires

You immediately thought of the Diana ring, didn't you? While blue is the most common sapphire, the stone comes in a variety of rich colours and saturations. Within our collection, you'll find purple, green, pink and yellow sapphires too. Green sapphires are much more muted than the verdant green of an emerald, making them a wonderful option for anyone who wants a hint of green without the intensity. 

Almost as hard as diamonds, these beautiful and durable stones are associated with fidelity and wisdom, hence their enduring appeal in engagement rings.

Emeralds and Rubies

Thanks to their character and popularity in antique jewellery, especially the Victorian era, emeralds and rubies often come in interesting, historic settings. They're beautiful alternatives to diamonds, and great for anyone who wants something a little different.

Emeralds have been the star of more than one famous vintage engagement ring, including the diamond and emerald toi et moi ("you and me") ring of Jackie Kennedy, the former First Lady of the United States. Their bright green hue has come to be associated with new beginnings. One thing to note: emeralds are on the soft side and vulnerable to water, so they may need extra care over time.

Enduring love and passion are the words that spring to mind with rubies. Coming in a variety of hues, from fuchsia-toned to deep "pigeon's blood" red, this stone is an eye-catching option for an engagement ring. Their hardness and durability make rubies an excellent everyday choice too. 

What Are The Four C's: Carat, Cut Colour & Clarity?

So you know what type of stone you want, but how do you decide between individual stones once you're ring shopping? The Four Cs are the standard framework used to describe and grade gemstones, and understanding them will help you shop with confidence.

Carat

Carat refers to the weight of the stone, calculated from its overall proportions. Generally, the larger the carat weight, the pricier the stone. But the story of a piece doesn't end there: two diamonds of the same carat weight can look and cost very differently depending on their cut, colour and clarity.

Colour

Diamonds are graded on a scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown).  Stones graded D–F are considered colourless, or "flawless," to the naked eye. Coloured diamonds - like the yellow diamonds mentioned above - graded separately based on saturation of colour, or ‘fanciness’.

Coloured gems can also be classified by colour, though this is often dictated more by region of origin, with geology playing a large part in a stones colour composition. For example, Burma is known for its rich ‘pigeon blood’ red rubies and Columbia sets the gold standard for emerald’s, renowned for the rich green to blueish-green tones.

Clarity

Clarity measures the presence of internal flaws (inclusions) and surface imperfections (blemishes) within a stone, graded from Flawless (FL) down to Included (I1, I2, I3). 

Inclusions are also present within coloured gemstones and can affect their colour. That said, some stones like emeralds, are known for their inclusions and are what makes them so attractive. Sometimes called a "jardin" (French for garden), these are considered part of the stone's natural character rather than a flaw.

Cut

Cut refers to how a stone has been shaped and faceted, and has the biggest influence on how a stone catches and reflects light. There are a plethora of cuts to choose from, but here are a few of the most popular for antique and vintage rings:

  • Emerald cut -  A rectangular or square-shaped diamond with step-cut facets, prized for its clean lines and understated elegance.

  • Old cut diamonds - Old cut diamonds are distinctive, as each stone is unique, having been hand-cut to radiate under candlelight and give off a romantic glow. Unlike the precise, machine-cut modern diamond, old cuts feature high crowns (the top third of the diamond), small tables (the flat top facet), and large, hand-cut facets that create a chunky, individual charm, your own piece of history.

  • Oval cut -  An elongated, brilliant-cut shape that combines the sparkle of a round diamond with a softer, flattering silhouette. Popular throughout the Art Deco and Retro era, the oval cut's elongating effect has made it a lasting favourite for antique and vintage rings alike.

What Is the Best Setting For An Engagement Ring?

The setting is just as important as the stone itself, as it determines how secure the stone is and how it catches the light, influencing the overall character of the ring. Many wearers will quickly find they have a preference for more prominent or subtle settings depending on their everyday habits and what they feel most comfortable on their hand.

  • Claw setting - The traditional setting for antique and vintage rings, where a series of metal prongs hold the stone in place. Claws maximise the amount of light entering the stone, making it appear brighter and larger.

  • Bezel setting - A custom-fit metal rim surrounds the gemstone entirely, with no claws. This offers excellent protection for the stone, making it a practical choice for anyone with an active lifestyle.

  • East-to-West setting -The stone is set sideways, running along the finger rather than up towards the knuckle. A striking, contemporary take on a classic shape.

  • High or low setting - Refers to how far the stone sits above the band. A high setting shows off the stone and its facets, while a low setting sits closer to the finger for a more practical, everyday feel.

Symbolic Engagement Ring Styles: What Makes Them Special?

  • Solitaire - A single diamond set on a plain band, letting the stone speak for itself. Timeless, versatile and endlessly popular.

  • Three stone - Three stones set side by side, traditionally said to represent a couple's past, present and future.

  • Toi et moi - French for "you and me," this style features two stones set side by side, symbolising the union of two people. A design with centuries of romantic history, and one enjoying a real resurgence today.

The Popular Engagement Ring Styles of 2026

2026 has truly seen modern takes on traditional styles come to the forefront, cemented by yellow diamonds becoming the cool girl standard. 

We've also seen East-to-West settings becoming increasingly popular. An architectural, structural twist on the traditional ring that sits the stone across the finger rather than up towards the knuckle. For lovers of romantic symbolism, this setting is said to indicate balance: two partners moving forward side by side. Bezel settings continue to reign supreme for those looking for a modern setting: sleek, secure, and endlessly wearable.

Alongside the bezel setting there has been a  resurgence of chunky settings and bands that put the metal on show alongside the stone. Bombé rings, with their rounded, domed silhouettes, have grown in popularity as part of this trend, offering a bold, modern option for engagement rings. 

Our Predictions for 2027 Engagement Rings

The fever for coloured diamonds shows no sign of slowing. If 2026 was the year of the yellow diamond, we predict the desert diamonds will have their moment in 2027. Ranging from dusky yellows to champagne tones, desert diamonds complement warm yellow gold settings beautifully and stand out from the crowd.

While 2026 has been dominated by modern takes on traditional designs, 2027 could see a return to true antique and vintage styles, think the crisp, clean lines of Art Deco rings, or the beautifully ornate designs of the Georgian era.

Expect unique cut stones to continue to take centre stage, from the geometric Asscher cut to antique cushion cuts. Stones that also have inclusions and blemishes are also becoming increasingly sought after, "imperfectly perfect," inclusions and all. 

Personalisation are also set to be a trend for 2027. Thoughtful touches from hand engravings to hidden details, like a birthstone set into the inside of the band, offer a way to make a ring truly one of a kind. 

The Bottom Line

Ultimately, when it comes to choosing an engagement ring, knowing your partner is the key to getting it right. What colour metal do they wear day to day? Do they gravitate towards colour, or keep things neutral? Will they prefer something classic, or more contemporary? Something understated, or more glamorous?

Hopefully, now you're armed with a little more knowledge, the process of finding the perfect ring will feel a little less bewildering, and a lot more exciting.

Ready to start your search? Take a look at a selection of beautiful rings, or book an appointment with our friendly Hatton Garden team.


 

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