Our rundown of the best LFW debuts, returns and colour palettes defining SS27 wardrobes and the Wave Antiques pieces we're styling next season.

The term 'unprecedented' is overused in fashion. And yet London Fashion Week's SS27 might just be the exception to the rule.

From M&S's 100th birthday celebration and first-ever LFW appearance, to Christopher Kane's debut runway show for Mulberry, the last week marked a turning of the sartorial tide, uniting high street staples and legacy fashion houses in ways that went far beyond the sell-out brand collaborations of recent years.

Unsurprisingly, some spring/summer staples were exactly as expected: sheer fabrics, corsetry lace, bonnets and bows. But alongside them came elements you'd be forgiven for filing under autumn/winter (stockings, underwear-as-outerwear, fringing). It marked a blurring of seasonal lines that means these trends can be worked into wardrobes now. No need to wait for 2027.

Jewellery itself was notably absent from several shows, but celebrated at Susan Fang (more on that below), where broken porcelain was reworked into accessories and jade was paired with gold to create flower-shaped jewellery in a true celebration of craftsmanship.

Meanwhile, British designer Patrick McDowell stitched Pandora jewellery directly into garments for his SS27 collection, as well as styling models with ready-to-wear pieces from the brand.

Here's our rundown of the best shows and the Wave Antiques pieces we'd style them with.

Christopher Kane

Three years after closing the doors on the namesake label he ran with his sister and long-time collaborator, Christopher Kane made a triumphant return to LFW as Mulberry's new creative director, unveiling the brand's SS27 collection. Celebrating heritage and his Scottish upbringing, Kane wove in signature Mulberry elements, cut-out motifs, leather, alongside check raincoats and button-up shirts, building a new visual language for the house. "It's all about that idea of this unseen logo," he explained backstage. "It's a design detail that's not in your face."

His Scottish roots showed through clearly: grey and white, baby blue and bright orange, tones of beige and burgundy that build out a heritage check, alongside a modern take on the vintage Mulberry sweatshirt and slate-coloured leather trousers. Mulberry bags remained the standout accessory on the catwalk, but the collection is a natural fit for chunky silver pendants, statement earrings and stacked bracelets. Consider jewellery with enough weight and texture to hold its own against the urban reworking of heritage tailoring.

Harris Reed

This was Harris Reed like we've never seen him before. Stepping away from the Met Gala couture he's known for, Reed set out to reexamine the silhouettes that made his name and reimagine them for everyday wear. The brand, beloved by Demi Moore and Harry Styles alike, achieved this by creating bespoke fabrics for the first time (jacquard silks, duchess satins), teamed with lace, beading and fringing.

It's a collection built for jewellery with a romantic, heirloom feel: think fine filigree, seed-pearl detailing and antique-inspired chokers that echo the beading and lace without competing with it, plus a statement drop earring to carry the drama of the fringing.

Alexander McQueen

McQueen finally returned to LFW after 25 years in Paris, and creative director Seán McGirr marked the homecoming with a collection that nodded to London and reworked McQueen's signature interpretations of religion.

McGirr drew on the city's urban nightlife and worked with the famous Huntsman on Savile Row to create sharp tailoring finished with angel-wing shoulders, while styling was offset by hairstyles sculpted into Keith Flint-inspired horns.

Expect this collection to pull jewellery in a darker, more sculptural direction: think blackened silver, chunky chain necklaces, signet rings and cross pendants with a Victorian mourning-jewellery edge. Invest in pieces sharp enough to match the tailoring, with enough gothic weight to match the horns.

 

Susan Fang

Canadian-Chinese designer Susan Fang staged her collection at the Barbican, its opulent, flora-inspired looks a striking contrast to the venue's brutalist concrete backdrop. Bright fuchsia, soft lilac and peach set the countdown for spring, but it was texture that stole the show: translucent beaded straps, headdresses and necklaces, sheer T-shirt dresses and appliqué-floral gowns.

Oversized jade-coloured earrings sat against embellished Crocs and 3D-printed flip-flops and open-toe heels decorated with rubber flowers: a collection that leans into playful, maximalist jewellery. Think jade and gemstone-toned pieces, Art Nouveau florals and layered seed-pearl necklaces that lean into the whimsy rather than fighting it.

M&S

You couldn't scroll social media this past week without hitting a photo from M&S's fashion week debut. And for good reason.

The show, attended by David Gandy, Dame Joan Collins, Jessie Ware and Pixie Geldof, featured a palette of green, black, cream, khaki and burgundy with flashes of cobalt blue, bringing a sense of excitement to an M&S autumnal wardrobe unlike anything seen before.

Sequins were refined rather than kitsch, as were the touches of lace and mesh. The brand's tagline, "a century of style, designed for today," is as accurate in aesthetic as it is in aspiration.

This is a collection that calls for jewellery people will actually wear on repeat: gold hoops, vintage-inspired cocktail rings, and a classic pearl strand or two for a touch of heritage glamour that matches the brand's own centenary moment.