Choosing an engagement ring is one of life’s most exciting moments. For many couples, the appeal of something truly unique makes an antique or vintage engagement ring irresistible. 

Unlike today’s mass-produced designs, every antique ring has its own personality. From delicate Edwardian filigree to bold Art Deco geometry, there is something special about wearing a ring that has already stood the test of time.

Antique or Vintage – What’s the Difference?

When searching for your perfect ring, you’ll often see the words “antique” and “vintage” used interchangeably, but they do have different meanings:

• Antique rings are generally considered to be 100 years old or more. This includes rings from the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian and early Art Deco periods.

• Vintage rings are usually pieces that are less than 100 years old, often from the mid-century through to the late 20th century.

Both categories offer individuality and charm that modern rings rarely match. Whether you prefer the soft, romantic details of a Victorian design or the sleek glamour of a 1960s setting, these rings have a character all their own.

The Magic of Old Diamond Cuts

One of the first things you’ll notice when shopping for antique rings is that the diamonds look a little different from today’s standard round brilliants. This is because diamond cutting has evolved over centuries.

• Old mine cuts (popular in the 18th and 19th centuries) have a cushion shape, high crown and small table, giving them a warm, deep sparkle.

• Old European cuts (early 20th century) are rounder but cut by hand, which gives them charm and individuality.

• Rose cuts (dating back to the 16th century) feature a flat base and a domed crown of triangular facets, which glimmer subtly, especially in soft lighting.

These cuts were designed for candlelight rather than electric light, creating a romantic, flickering glow that many modern stones cannot replicate. For those who value character over perfection, these antique cuts are a dream.

Craftsmanship and Hallmarks

Antique and vintage rings are often admired for their extraordinary craftsmanship. The fine details, from hand-engraved patterns to delicate millegrain edges, show the skill of the jewellers.

When evaluating a piece, pay close attention to:

• The condition of the setting: Is the stone secure? Are the claws or bezels intact?

• The band: Has it been worn thin with age, or is it still sturdy?

• Hallmarks: When present, these are usually stamped inside the shank and can reveal details such as metal purity, place of origin and sometimes even the year of manufacture. However, not all antique rings bear hallmarks, so the absence of one does not necessarily diminish authenticity. In these cases, an experienced jeweller’s expertise is essential for assessing metal quality and age.

Practical Considerations: Ring Size and Resizing

One common concern when buying antique rings is whether they can be resized. The reassuring news is that most can be adjusted without difficulty. However, with bands that feature intricate designs or diamonds set all the way around, resizing is generally not possible. 

If you’re unsure of your partner’s size, you can request a complimentary ring sizer from us, use our ring size guide, or  visit us for a professional measurement. Getting the fit right is essential for both comfort and security.

Where to Buy Antique Engagement Rings

The most important decision you’ll make, apart from choosing the ring itself, is where to buy it. Choosing the right jeweller is key: you want someone who is knowledgeable, transparent, and able to give you confidence in the quality and authenticity of the ring.

Whenever possible, it helps to view pieces in person. Cameras and screens don’t always capture the true sparkle, colour, or fine details of antique jewellery. Seeing a ring with your own eyes also helps you spot any issues that might not be visible in photographs.

Look for jewellers who:

• Provide a warranty or guarantee

• Offer an insurance valuation for your piece

• Are transparent about any restoration work carried out

• Hold recognised gemmological qualifications to assess stones accurately

• Have the expertise to explain the history and details of the ring

You’ll also want a jeweller you can return to in the years ahead; for resizing, checking the settings, and keeping your ring professionally cleaned so it continues to shine for a lifetime. This way, you’re not only choosing a beautiful ring, but also enjoying the reassurance, care and after-sales support that only a trusted jeweller can provide.

At Wave Antiques, we are a fifth-generation family business based in Hatton Garden. Behind every piece is our expert team of qualified gemmologists and experienced specialists, who carefully vet and asses each ring. Our heritage and expertise mean you can trust that your ring has been chosen with knowledge, care and respect for its history.

Next Steps

If you’re ready to start your journey, we invite you to browse our curated collection of antique and vintage engagement rings. Whether you prefer shopping online or booking an appointment at our Hatton Garden showroom, we’re here to help you find the perfect engagement ring.