If you’ve ever been captivated by the allure of vintage and antique jewellery, you’re not alone. Collecting vintage and antique jewellery is not only a way to acquire timeless pieces of art but also an investment that can appreciate in value over time. Whether you’re looking for a stunning Art Deco ring, a romantic Victorian necklace, or a rare Edwardian brooch, understanding the ins and outs of collecting is essential. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll help you start your journey into the world of vintage and antique jewellery while focusing on the best practices to find high-quality, authentic pieces.

What is Vintage and Antique Jewellery?

Before diving into the world of vintage jewellery and antique jewellery, it’s important to understand the key differences between them.

• Vintage Jewellery: Vintage jewellery typically refers to pieces that are between 20 and 100 years old. Popular vintage jewellery styles include Art Deco, Mid-Century Modern, and Retro, each offering unique characteristics and historical significance.
• Antique Jewellery: Antique jewellery refers to pieces that are 100 years old or more. These include coveted styles such as Victorian, Georgian, and Edwardian jewellery, known for their exceptional craftsmanship and timeless designs.

Both categories hold significant appeal to collectors due to their rare, intricate, and historical value.

Why Collect Vintage and Antique Jewellery?

Collecting vintage and antique jewellery is a blend of passion, history, and investment. Here are just a few reasons why you might want to begin your collection:

• Unique Pieces: Vintage and antique jewellery offers one-of-a-kind designs that are no longer being made. Each piece tells a story and carries its own history.
• Craftsmanship and Quality: Many older pieces are handcrafted with attention to detail that modern mass-produced jewellery lacks.
  
• Sustainability: By buying vintage and antique jewellery, you’re contributing to a more sustainable market by reusing and repurposing beautiful, high-quality materials.

 

Key Jewellery Eras Every Collector Should Know

Understanding the different eras of vintage and antique jewellery will help you identify pieces that suit your taste and budget. Here’s a brief overview of some of the most notable jewellery periods:

1. Georgian Jewellery (1714–1837)

The Georgian era is the oldest period of antique jewellery, featuring intricate hand craftsmanship and the use of natural gemstones. Popular items from this time include lockets, brooches, and mourning jewellery. These pieces were often created with sentimental value in mind.

2. Victorian Jewellery (1837–1901)

The Victorian era spanned the long reign of Queen Victoria, with jewellery styles evolving over time. Early Victorian jewellery was sentimental, often featuring hearts, flowers, and hidden meanings. As the era progressed, more luxurious materials like diamonds and coloured gemstones were incorporated into designs.

3. Art Nouveau (1890–1910)

Art Nouveau jewellery is characterised by its flowing, organic shapes, often inspired by nature. These pieces feature delicate enamel, intricate designs, and curved lines, making them highly sought after for their artistry and beauty.

4. Art Deco (1920s–1930s)

Art Deco jewellery is known for its bold, geometric designs, incorporating diamonds, platinum, and vibrant coloured gemstones. The angular and clean lines make Art Deco pieces stand out as one of the most desirable styles in vintage jewellery today.

5. Retro Jewellery (1940s–1950s)

The Retro period saw the rise of bold, chunky designs, often crafted in rose gold and yellow gold. These pieces were popular during the post-WWII era, embodying optimism, glamour, and luxury. Large gemstones were often used in the designs, creating statement pieces.

For a more in-depth over view read: A Guide to Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco Jewellery Eras.

How to Start Your Vintage and Antique Jewellery Collection

Follow these steps to build a stunning collection of vintage and antique jewellery:

1. Educate Yourself on the Jewellery Styles

Understanding the various vintage jewellery and antique jewellery styles is essential to becoming a knowledgeable collector. Research different jewellery periods, materials, and the hallmark system, which helps to identify the authenticity and metal content of each piece.

2. Start with a Specific Style or Era

Rather than collecting anything that catches your eye, focus on a particular era or style. For example, if you love the elegance of the Art Deco period, start by collecting Art Deco rings or Art Deco necklaces. Narrowing down your focus makes it easier to build a cohesive collection and find pieces that complement each other.

3. Set a Budget

It’s important to set a budget for your collection, prices will vary depending on factors such as the age of the piece, its rarity, and its condition. 

4. Buy from Trusted Sellers

When purchasing vintage jewellery or antique jewellery, always ensure you buy from reputable and trusted sources. Look for jewellery stores that specialise in vintage and antique pieces, as they will be able to authenticate and provide details about each item’s provenance. We recommend visiting our Hatton Garden showroom (by appointment only) for a personalised experience where you can see and touch our collection of handpicked jewellery.

5. Check for Condition and Authenticity

Always inspect the condition of a piece before buying. Look for any damage, loose stones, or repairs that may have been made. Ensure the piece is authentic by looking for hallmarks or maker’s marks, which can help verify its age and quality.

Where to Buy Vintage and Antique Jewellery

If you’re starting your collection, you may be wondering where to find vintage jewellery and antique jewellery. Here are a few options:

• Reputable Jewellery Shops: Look for shops that specialise in vintage and antique jewellery. Many of these stores offer a wide selection and can provide valuable insights into the history and significance of each piece.
• Estate Sales and Auctions: Estate sales can be an excellent opportunity to find rare pieces. However, it’s crucial to do your research and know what to look for before bidding.
• Online Retailers: Platforms like Etsy and 1stDibs feature a wide variety of vintage and antique jewellery, but always ensure you are buying from a trusted seller. 

When shopping for antique and vintage jewellery, we always recommend that our clients try pieces on in person to truly get a sense of what they love. It can be difficult to fully appreciate the sparkle, size, and condition of a piece from a photograph alone. Book an appointment at our Hatton Garden showroom to experience our collection up close.

Popular Antique and Vintage Jewellery to Collect

If you're just starting your collection, here are some timeless and sought-after antique and vintage jewellery pieces to look out for:

• Victorian lockets: Sentimental and full of history, these often feature intricate engraving, enamel, or natural seed pearls.

• Edwardian diamond rings: Known for their delicate filigree and platinum settings, perfect for antique engagement rings.

• Art Deco cocktail rings: Bold, geometric Art Deco jewellery designs with colourful gemstones like emeralds, sapphires and onyx from the 1920s and 30s.

• Georgian mourning jewellery: Rare and highly collectible, these pieces often contain hairwork or miniature portraits.

• Mid-century gold bangles: 1940s–60s chunky bangle styles are coming back into fashion and make a strong statement.

• Antique cluster rings: Antique and vintage cluster rings remain popular, particularly those set with old mine-cut or rose-cut diamonds.

Caring for Your Vintage and Antique Jewellery

Proper care and maintenance are key to preserving the value of your vintage and antique jewellery. Here are some tips to help ensure your collection stays in top condition:

• Cleaning: Use a soft cloth to gently clean your jewellery. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners that could damage delicate pieces.
• Storage: Store your jewellery in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Consider using a padded jewellery box or individual pouches to prevent scratching.
• Regular Inspection: Have your jewellery professionally inspected and cleaned to ensure it remains in excellent condition.

Conclusion

Collecting vintage and antique jewellery is an enriching journey that combines history, artistry, and heirlooms. Whether you're drawn to the glamour of Art Deco rings or the sentimentality of Victorian lockets, building your collection thoughtfully and carefully is the key to success. Be sure to focus on quality, provenance, and authenticity when making purchases. If you have any further questions about starting your own antique jewellery collection, feel free to get in touch with our team of experts. We would be delighted to help.